The Hong Kong 100k
The running of the inaugural HK 100 2011 was a birthday present to myself . I just fell in love with the idea of crossing the finish line of a 100k run on my birthday ! Well the HK 100k was a wonderful race, a beautiful route, and blessed with excellent volunteers and support – but the snag was that I never did cross that finish line. Instead I arrived about 25 minutes after the cut off at the 65k checkpoint ( CP6) – and got offered a chair and a taxi back to the hotel.
CP6
Check point 6 was at the 65k mark( Gillwell Camp) with a cut off at 3.30am. At 3.30am I was still somewhere on the hillside trying to maneuver my way down a steep rocky descent. The descent was a little tricky because of a minor issue with a recalcitrant left ankle. I mean, I have treated it quite well over these years and I don’t really think that asking it to perform for a 100k distance over the hills of Hong Kong is such a big favour. I admit that just 3 weeks prior to the race , I had twisted it somewhat severely, but I did do the decent thing and rested the darn thing, gave it ice baths, pain killers, support bandages for three weeks. Treated it like royalty I did. Talk about gratitude. On race day, it gave way every time I landed on it and in the last few kilometers, I was stumbling and falling down all over the place. Today, three days after the race, it is all puffed up with self-importance and looking to be about twice the size of its companion!
The Start
The race started at Pak Tam Chung on the Sai Kung peninsula. We had stayed the night the Po Leung Kuk holiday camp which is less than 5 min away from the start line . A short briefing at 7.45am told us to look for the reflective arrows and pink reflective ribbons which mark the trail; and so at about 8am we duly trotted off and I rapidly became the last runner.
This was my third trail run. My first was the Marathon des Sables which I attempted without any exposure to trails ( err obviously not a very smart or logical thing to do) . However the event intrugued me and I then went on to try the TNF Singapore.
CP 1 – CP4
This was a pretty part of the run. We scrambled up and down and up and down, taking in the heights, sights and atmosphere. After the initial
road bits and the dam, it was rolling hills and trails. I loved the stunning combination of mountains, blue sea and sky and stopped frequently to take pictures – much to the dismay of two suspicious characters behind me who had the race after alighting from a taxi somewhere before CP1. This shady pair just wouldn’t pass me – even though I gave them ample opportunity but felt obliged to sniff at plants or develop sudden interest in birds other fauna every time I stopped.
The ground changed frequently from gravel to rocks to sandy beaches. The fine white sand did cause some problems – creeping in stealthily between every toe, I loved the sound of the wind and water. The weather was cool and it was a real change from Singapore’s heat.
I relished the contradictory feel of the cold wind blowing around, yet still having my core wrapped warm and snug in windproof jackets.
There were picturesque bits when we traipsed along the shaded banks of gurgling streams and other bits when we clambered over fat lumpy coastal rocks.
The route continued through small villages – some populated with simple restaurants whilst others had been left empty, save for a few stray dogs. There was a strange quiet eeriness when we walked through the crumbling remains of some windswept fishing villages. The buildings looked derelict, but nearby there were also some fairly well-tended graves.
Somewhere along the way, the two shady fellows identified themselves as a sweeper group ( Blush! major embarassment) They couldn’t stand my pace any longer and tried to tell me in Cantonese, that when walking the trails, I should lighten the load in my backpack else I would never make the cut off point. Blithely I ignored the good advice and continued my merry way enjoying the sights and sounds and munching on the snacks that I had with me. I met some of the organisers and volunteers along the road and along the checkpoints, chatted with them and moved on. Admittedly as I was alone most of the time, there were occasional anxious moments when village dogs would bark and follow me for a short distance. The most heart stopping moment though was when I met a big black buffalo coming up a narrow trail. The trail could only take one. It was either him or me. No prizes for guessing who ungraciously stepped off the trail…
Somewhere towards the evening, as dusk fell and the temperatures started to drop, I took out my torch and heavier sweater and was happy and secure with the warmth and intense light.
At CP4, the 45k mark, I was still ahead of the cut off by about 1.5hours so I had a drink, topped up some fluids, and asked which way to go. Someone waved and off I went along the road in the direction that I thought I was supposed to go, hoping to make up for lost time on this stretch of road. Unfortunately some time later (about 2.5k) later a car came up from behind and said – ” Wrong Way!” Oops. Luckily the volunteers came to look for me. Otherwise I might still be on the road today wondering where the trails began! Apparently the trail started behind the check point.
The walk from CP4 to CP5 was challenging., but the views from the top of Kai Kung San at about 399m were reward enough. You could see the bright twinkling lights of Hong Kong in the clear night sky. The sweeper groups changed regularly, but all were good. Sometimes they would be with me, sometimes they would keep pace with other runners. They would talk to me in Cantonese, telling me how to walk the trails, ” Relax, be light-footed,” they said – “ breathe deeply and find a rhythm ”.
I found I liked walking in the dark cold of the night and enjoyed the silent communication with the woods and trees. Limited light and moonlight were enough in some parts, but when the rocks and uneven steps appeared I began to get into difficulty. As the night wore on, my lights dimmed further and the rocks and the deep steps took on a life of its own. Shadows danced around the flickering beam of the headlights and I found it difficult to judge the height of the steps. Earlier in the day, the dry rivulets that were filled with brown leaves were delightful to play in. At night their meandering paths became traps for the unwary.
CP5
At CP5, My margin was trimmed to half an hour. This was also the drop bag area, so I retrieved my drop bag, planning to put the old torch into the bag and continue with the new torch. Unfortunately in the rush to get going, I couldn’t put any food into my own furnace and I threw my new torch and probably my spare batteries ( or maybe I dropped them somewhere when I was fiddling with beanies and jackets) – into the drop bag and hared off with my old torch.
For the first kilometer I was happy, alone and making good headway. Then I realised – oops no pink ribbon and all that reflective material I saw in the woods was the white of the bamboo . So I hared back, to check if I was on the right path – I found one pink ribbon – and went back again. Then I reached a three-way junction and couldn’t decide where to go as I couldn’t find an arrow – only some reflective tape round a post. So I ventured a few meters down each one , then gave up and decided to wait for the sweeper group.
The route from Cp5 to Cp6 contained several climbs including one long walk across a ridge where I almost got blown off by some strong winds. Later, as my light dimmed, the lone sweeper tried to light the way from behind but that caused my own shadow to fall in front of me - creating a black void where I was supposed to tread. So while I loved walking in the monochromatic colours of the night, I guess if you aren’t used to the trail, its much safer to get some light. My poor long suffering sweeper loaned me his spare torch and we slowed to a crawl and chatted about life and the Hong Kong trails all the way to CP6. He told me that by himself, he would have finished the 100k trail in less than 12 hours.
Birthday present
So did I enjoy my birthday present- an emphatic yes! I really liked the blue sea and sky of the day scenery and the deep indigo of the night. But I think the most valuable present was the tutorial in trail walking. I also append a few tips that one feels compelled to pass on
1. Try not to sprain your ankle before or during the race. Reserve that for post race activity. The handicap will save you some shopping money.
2. Remember to tank up – I couldn’t hold any food down after getting lost at CP4 and the hypogylcemia did not help the
already suspect thought processes
3. Train – on trails or some similar terrain. Maybe a little bit of stair climbing up the tallest building would be good – but bring a handphone in case you get trapped by firedoors.
4. Remember not to drop things in your drop bag – or just don’t use a drop bag – but then you have to remember not to drop your batteries along the trail!
5. Torches are temperamental. When you have two, one will fail and one will malfunction or will go off and tour the country trails without you. Get at least 3 of similar quality – and if you are unfamiliar with the trail or have fading eyesight – get the type that will turn your night run into a run at high noon.
Postscript
So what did I do when I left the race – I went to Nong Ping Village to climb the 400+ steps to see the Tian Tan Statue and wondered why my quads were a little stiff. O and another post race activity in Hong Kong involves use of credit cards…… bring lots of money for food and shopping

















The Race
The village and all the tentage was floating on a sea of mud. In fact many of the athletes were busy taking pictures of the mud. The mud however did not deter anybody from shopping. The expo was an excellent place to get gear – technical bike things and other must have accessories. My credit card went on a marathon spree – watch, compression socks, bike jerseys, gels ,swim goggles……. 


Two weeks ago the swim course was blue salt water complete with dolphins. On race day it was brown mud tainted fresh water. Some call it black water swimming! We had to pull leaves and twigs out of mouths and eyes. Anyway, even with the new goggles - I got lost and kept swimming a zig zag from river bank to roped course and then to river bank again. In the end the surf board rescue people wanted to know if I was actually trying to swim to New Zealand.
The swim to bike transition took all of 13 minutes. I suppose at my age, one has to take a little time to squish daintily through the mud. I am notexactly fast mounting the bike, but once on the bike it was time for munchies!
The bike course is basically in 3 parts - sharp city hills, coastal flats and rolling woodland hills. And even though unclipping my new bicycle shoes was an unpredictable endeavour , I decied it was much safer to push the bike over the Matthew Flinders hill rather than fall off trying to climb the hill. Both being equally unglamourous but one being much less painful.
The run route is a figure of 8. One flat loop going towards Settlement Point and a second hilly loop going towards Flynn’s Beach I took just over 6 hours – using a 5min run and 1 min walk cycle. The transition from bike to run took almost 12 minutes (err I nly have muddied excuses). As the last runner I had a bicycle sweeper who was really very sweet. He had to change companions 5 times because the last runner position changed hands five times! When I managed to overtake another runner, inevitably that runner would speed up before stopping again – at which point I would pass them again. This is part of the run from my Garmin. It ran out of battery after about 5 hrs.



I found that the wetsuit made me so bouyant I got sea sick floating around in the sea. I think I know how the otters and seals feel bobbing around on the surface. Anyway it was during this period that there were reports of sharks hunting surfers in Sydney, so practicing in the open water rapidly became less attractive. Just in case the local shark community were influenced by their city cousins.
e – this time in black and lime green.



I stayed in Telopea Inn. This was a really good choice as the race expo, the marathon start and finish were virtually at its doorstep. Supermarkets including a 24 hour Coles is within 5 minutes walk, I think the Inn was booked out by runners that weekend. On the morning of the run , there were runners peeping out from almost every door.
Actually race day was almost a no show day for me . The lesson I learnt was that one should never sprint for a tour bus on the day before a race.
Race Day dawned clear and chilly. I walked out at 6 am and promptly walked back into my room. Actually most of the other runners staying in Telopea Inn were also in their rooms- peeking out from their doors and watching the other runners jumping up and down trying to warm up. Thank goodness for Telopea Inn. Almost on the dot, about 10 minutes before the gun, the room doors opened and runners emerged from their rooms to join the rest on the street. Standing with the 4:30 pacer and his balloons, I took over a minute to get to the start line. The first loop was around parliament house, then it was on to the shores of the Lake Burley Griffin. At about 15k the balloons drifted away in the distance before me. Then a nice man on a motorbike came up and said – “Hold your direction – the front runners are coming.” Yeah, I was lapped before the 21k mark!

I had a wonderful time.
Needless to say, I almost couldn’t get up the next morning for the race. Scrambling from Hobart for the 25 minute drive to the Cadbury Factory, I didn’t manage to get breakfast or pack any drinks. It was a friendly event with many particpants on first name terms. There were also little boxes marked with varying distances where runners could put their own individual drinks – something that I had not seen before. I was quite blue and frozen. Whilst there were a few hardy souls in shorts, most of us took shelter in the registration room. There were several runners from Sydney, a quiet Comerades Ultramarathon veteran and a lady from outside Australia who loudly declared she had completed marathons in several continents.
The event start was fairly low key. Everybody gathered near the arch, someone said start and everybody loped off. There was a double loop round the factory then it was down hill ,uphill, down hill, uphill! Well at least that’s what it felt like. There was some confusion regarding turn around points especially where the turn for the 21k run was about 1 to 1.5k in front of the 42k turn. As there was no electronic chip recording, the distances run were purely on an honor basis. No prizes for guressing who I saw turning early! 

The Sundown Ultra

The run follows the coast until the 20 – 22k mark, where there is a turnaround point and a first bridge crossing. I was still quite strong here and feeling quite chirpy. Once over the bridge, we ran past a few Siglap estates and I thought of my sister in law and family who live nearby. Then there was the MRT train station and a nice beer garden. I must say the policemen were wonderful here – stopping traffic for the runners rather than the other way round.





















